Best of Scotland in 7 days

Who hasn't heard of the Loch Ness Monster, the bagpipes, the misty Hebrides islands, or the famous glens? And if none of these, surely Outlander had to have invoked your curiosity about Scotland—well, it certainly did that for me. Scotland had long been on my travel wish list, and this summer, my husband and I embarked on a Scottish road trip adventure, and it was everything I had hoped for and more!

Contents

1. Where to start and how to get there

2. Luggage storage

3. 48 hours in Edinburgh

4. Route

5. Reindeers in Cairngnorms

6. Inverness

7. Isle of Skye

8. Oban & Isle of Mull

   
   

Here's everything that you need to know to turn your Scottish dream into reality. First, how to get there and get around. You can start your trip with Edinburgh, the biggest city and capital of Scotland. There are direct flights from all major cities of the world to Edinburgh; however, if a trip to Scotland is part of your trip to the UK as a whole, then there are numerous trains from London, Birmingham, Manchester, and other cities of the UK as well. A direct train journey from London to Edinburgh will take about 4.5 hours without the hassle of luggage limitations, security checks, etc., and will take you through a scenic countryside. Also, the train stations are centrally located in the city, thereby reducing your time and expense for traveling to and from the airports, which are far away from the city center. So, I highly recommend taking the train vis-à-vis flights.

We started our journey from Birmingham with a direct train (Avanti West Coast) to Edinburgh Waverley Station. The travel time was about 4 hours 15 minutes, and with a café/pantry on board, comfortable seats, and stunning views of the UK countryside, the time flew by. The route becomes particularly scenic when you are crossing the Lake District area.

Since we were reaching Edinburgh in the morning and we were feeling pretty fresh and ready to explore, we chose to start right off from the station, which is right in the center of the old town of Edinburgh. Since our Airbnb was a bit far from the center (accommodation in Edinburgh is particularly expensive in the center), we decided to store our luggage for the day at a Stasher facility near the station. This saves time, money, and the hassle of making a trip just to drop off the luggage, only to return to the same place. Additionally, many places, especially Airbnbs, may not allow you to drop off luggage before your check-in time, which is usually between 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm. If you find yourself in a similar situation, a luggage storage facility like Stasher or Bounce can be a good option. Note: Book storage in advance, as sometimes these facilities can be full or may not accept walk-ins. About the trustworthiness of these places, they may not look professional enough, but I can safely say that they are okay actually. Just take the standard precautions like clicking pictures of the luggage in the facility, take a receipt (you will get it online when you book), don't leave anything precious/valuable in them, and you are good to go.

We had 2 full days at Edinburgh, so below is what all we did in those magical 48 hours.

Day 1

With the right shoes and spirit we started with a walk on the Royal Mile. It is one of busiest and touristy streets of the world and it is bound to be. The Royal mile is the main street of the old town of Edinburgh connecting the city's most significant landmarks. With the Edinburgh Castle on one end and the Hoolyrood Palace on the other, Royal Mile is overlooked by impressive, towering tenements, between which cobbled closes and narrow stairways interlock to create a secret underground world. Peppered with superb attractions such as The Real Mary King’s Close, St Giles’ Cathedral, John Knox House, the Scottish Storytelling Centre and some of the best eating and drinking spots in the city, the Royal Mile offers much to see and do. While the architecture is stunning, the history of these monuments is just as captivating.

Scottish Bagpiper, Royal Mile

With the sounds of Bagpipes in the background, cobbled streets underneath and smell of Scotch and Haggis in the air, we reached the Edinburgh Castle. We had booked the tickets online thus we didnt have to stand in the queue for the same and we even saw some people being turned away for the tickets having been sold out. The Castle has limited slots for different timings of the day so booking the tickets a bit in advance a great idea.

Perched on a volcanic plug, Edinburgh Castle has dominated the skyline of Scotland’s capital city for centuries. Home to kings and queens for many centuries, Queen Margaret (who was later made a saint) died here in 1093. The chapel built in her honour by her son, King David I, is Edinburgh’s oldest building.

Above the door to the Royal Palace are the gilded initials MAH – for Mary Queen of Scots and her second husband Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley. Mary gave birth to James VI in the Royal Palace in 1566. He became king of Scotland at 13 months old and united the crowns of Scotland and England in 1603.

One in five Scots who enlisted during the First World War never came home. Scottish National War Memorial, a fitting tribute to those who died in both world wars and in conflicts since 1945 was made by some of Scotland’s finest artists and craftspeople. Edinburgh Castle remains an active military base.

In the past, ships in the Firth of Forth used the One o’Clock Gun to set their maritime clocks. This tradition began in 1861 when businessman John Hewat introduced the concept to Edinburgh from Paris. The gun continues to be fired daily at 1pm, except on Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day. Many people gather to witness the event, and the sound often startles those on Princes Street below.

There are many more such fascinating facts about the Edinburgh Castle and you can spend easily spend 2-3 hours exploring the whole castle. In winters, the sky is usually overcast and thus early afternoons may be a good time to visit but in Summers, the earlier the better. That way you can beat the crowd and mind you, the castle gets really really crowded. Getting early will also help you get those perfect shots of the Castle without a thousand people photo bombing your every picture plus the light is not that harsh so overall better quality of pictures. We reached around 01:30 pm and it was very hot and crowded :( We still enjoyed the view from up top, reading about the history of this magnificent castle and just being part of something that grand and old.

We didnt take a guided tour but if you are in a big group or with kids that might be a great idea without the hassle of individual audio guide and it can also be a nice shared experience for everyone.

From the Edinburgh Castle, we then headed to grab lunch and for that we reached the grassmarket area in the Old town. With stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, the Grassmarket is a bustling area of the old town with antique shops, local artisan products, designer shops and a great assortment of bars, restaurants and cafes. In contrast to the its lively present the Grassmarket has had a pretty grim past. The Grassmarket became the official spot for public executions in Edinburgh in 1660, and remained so for over a hundred years. As a result, it became the scene for a great many deaths.

After lunch, we just walked around the Grassmarket area and clicked a zillion pictures of Edinburgh Castle from the streets and reached the Vennel Steps and the Flodden Wall. As enchanting the castle was from the inside I kind of feel looking at it from far from different vantage points made it more intriguing. Well, the Flodden Wall was built around the Old Town of Edinburgh, and fortified to keep the English armies out after the tragic Battle of Flodden in 1513, as well as to deter smugglers.

While exploring Edinburgh, it’s easy to walk by pieces of the past without even realizing it. Some of the walls, which blend in seamlessly with even the newer buildings, have their own centuries-old histories that hint at the city's former fortifications.

The Flodden Wall was completed in 1560 to protect the city against an English invasion that never came. After Scottish forces were defeated and King James IV was killed at the Battle of Flodden in 1513, Edinburgh officials feared the victorious English troops would soon descend upon the ancient Scottish city.

Though the English never did actually invade after the Battle of Flodden, the wall played an important role in protecting Edinburgh from the turbulent times that rocked the city during the 16th century, when different groups attempted to besiege the castle. The massive cannon Mons Meg was even used to destroy the buildings snipers had settled in outside the wall.

The Flodden Wall, along with the other two walls built to encase the city, was eventually ruined in the 18th century. As Edinburgh expanded, the barriers became a hindrance rather than a help. Roads and buildings like the University of Edinburgh’s Old College were constructed over crumbling sections of the abandoned walls. Part of the Flodden Wall that surrounds Greyfriars Kirk was even destroyed in what is believed to have been a freak lightning strike.

View of the Edinburgh Castle from the Vennel Steps

Today you can follow the remains of the Flodden Wall up from Grassmarket and around Greyfriar’s Kirkyard and the Old Town. Walking through Greyfriar’s Kiryard we visited the grave of Bobby the Dog. Here is the story of Greyfriar’s Bobby- In 1850 a gardener called John Gray, together with his wife Jess and son John, arrived in Edinburgh. Unable to find work as a gardener he avoided the workhouse by joining the Edinburgh Police Force as a night watchman. To keep him company through the long winter nights John took on a partner, a diminutive Skye Terrier, his ‘watchdog’ called Bobby. Together John and Bobby became a familiar sight trudging through the old cobbled streets of Edinburgh. Through thick and thin, winter and summer, they were faithful friends. The years on the streets appear to have taken their toll on John, as he was treated by the Police Surgeon for tuberculosis.

John eventually died of the disease on the 15th February 1858 and was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby soon touched the hearts of the local residents when he refused to leave his master’s grave, even in the worst weather conditions. The kind folk of Edinburgh took good care of Bobby, but still he remained loyal to his master. For fourteen years the dead man’s faithful dog kept constant watch and guard over the grave until his own death in 1872.

It it said that J.K. Rowling also took inspiration for the names of characters for the Harry Potter Books from the graves in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. You can visit the graves of Thomas Riddlle (inspiration for Voldermort’s original name) and William McGonnagal (Inspiration for Prof McGonnagal) and others.

From here we headed back to the Royal mile to see the St. Giles Cathedral. St Giles’ Cathedral, founded in 1124 by King David I, has been a working church for over 900 years. A backdrop to Scotland’s turbulent religious history, it has seen the seeds of civil war sown and been John Knox’s parish church during the Reformation. It’s a beautiful Church with its intricate stained glass windows, gold and cobalt blue ceiling and the ornate carvings on the pillars and walls. Though the entry to the Church is free, it is suggested to give a small donation for the upkeep of the Church.

Just 5 min walk away from the St Giles’ Cathedral is the Writer’s Museum, which commemorates the lives and works of three of the greatest Scottish writers: Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson. The Museum is housed in the beautiful mansion called Lady Stair’s House, which was built in 1622 and it is named after an early owner, Elizabeth, Dowager Countess of Stair. The building was donated to the City of Edinburgh in 1907, to be transformed into a museum. So, if you are a bibliophile or love the smell of old books this is a quiet place which takes you back in time through the written word.

From here we walked to the Scott’s Monument and the Princes Gardens. Scott’s Monument, built in the 17th Century, is a towering tribute to one of the Scottish literary giants Sir Walter Scott. It is the second largest monument in the name of any writer in the world. Its Victorian Gothic intricate design and soaring spires stand tall and majestic in the heart of Edinburgh.

Right below the Scott’s Monument are the Princes Gardens, rolling lush green grass fields with a view of the Scott’s Monument on one side and the skyline of the old town Edinburgh on the other. You can laze around here under a tree or soak up some sun in the winters.

Next stop for us was the Calton Hill. It is a perfect spot for watching a sunset. You can also go to Arthur Seat if you are not tired yet and are up for some light workout. However, we chose Calton hill as it was close by and had a great city skyline view. I would like to go Arthur’s Seat on my next trip hopefully. Another thing to do on my next trip to Edinburgh hopefully is to see the New College building which apparently has a breathtaking entrance which we missed as it was closed being a weekend.

Dugald Stewart Monument, Calton Hill

Well, Calton Hill is about a 15 min walk from the Princes Gardens. The hill’s elevated position provides unmatched views of Edinburgh’s skyline, including iconic landmarks like the Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat, and the Old Town. Calton Hill is home to several neoclassical structures, including the unfinished National Monument, the City Observatory and the Dugald Stewart Monument. Pro Tip: Carry a wind jacket or a stole as it gets windy and cold up there and may be get something to drink and a quick bite because the cafe up there is usually too crowded and the best views are away from the crowd. Also, with your food and drinks you can a make sunset picnic for yourself. And that’s how we ended our day 1 in Edinburgh.

Day 2

We started our day with a stroll through the colorful Victoria Street. One of Edinburgh’s most iconic thoroughfares, it is a picturesque and winding cobblestone lane. Named after Queen Victoria, it exudes a timeless charm, with its colourful facades, curved cobbles, and quirky shopfronts and is widely believed to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s vision of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books.

Views of Victoria Street from Victoria Terrace

Taking in the curve of the buildings and the cobbled alley, the little stairways and shop signs, you get the sense of hidden stories and magic behind every door.

View of the Edinburgh Castle from Ross Fountain

After exploring the Victoria Street and its dreamy nooks, we headed to the Ross fountain in the Princes Gardens. An Aqua blue colored fountain in the middle of lush green gardens with a view of mighty walls of the Edinburgh Castle, its a perfect backdrop for dramatic pictures and again a great vantage point for sighting the Castle. Grab an icecream cone from one of the small shops nearby, sit on the benches and just admire these man made marvels.

Ross Fountain

The main shopping streets for high end as well as mid-range brand is close the Princes Gardens so you can indulge in some retail therapy after visiting the Ross Fountain or directly move towards the Dean Village which is merely 10 min walk from the Princes Gardens.

Nestled along the tranquil Water of Leith, Dean village traces its origins to the Water of Leith Village, a milling community founded in the 12^thcentury. Dean Village is characterised by its charming stone buildings, many of which date back several centuries. The dated yellow buildings, narrow lanes, wooden bridges and the tranquil waters of Leith creates a serene and peaceful environment in juxtaposition with fast paced modern life right around its edges. Spend a quiet afternoon by taking a leisurely walk or sit next to the tranquil flowing waters of Leith and soak in the beauty of this tiny oasis.

We then headed back towards the Royal Mile to see the Holyrood Palace, the official residence of the King of Scotland. This historic building is associated with many a historic figures like Mary, the Queen of Scots, Bonnie Princes Charlie and others. Today, this Palace is used by the King of UK for his official engagements in Scotland. You can book an online ticket to see the palace to skip the queue and save over 4 GBP per adult ticket. Though it is not as busy as the Edinburgh Castle, it is equally rich and filled with history. This maginificent piece of neoclassical architecture preserves the royal heritage and to admire it you can walk through the Holyrood Palace Gardens, the Abbey Strand which is like a gateway to the Palace and end the visit with having Tea at the Palace. Yes, there is a cafe in the Palace, set in the historic Mews Courtyard, offering seasonal home-made dishes from fresh, locally sourced produce including a delicious Afternoon Tea.

In 2 days, one can cover most of the significant historical landmarks and indulge in many quintessential experiences. One can ofcourse spend many more days here exploring hidden gems, museums, new town and the coast. If you are a Potterhead then you take a guided tour to see the sights relevant to the books and look at Edinburgh with a different and magical perspective.

While there are these grand, magnificent historic landmarks all around Edinburgh to see there is equally spectacular food scene in the city. Below are some of my favourite places that we ate at and loved:-

1. The Milkman- a coffee shop and bakery with fresh, fluffy and flaky scones, pastries, tarts and all things melt in mouth sweet. Becoming an Instagram highlight has only rightfully helped its case. Located on the Cockburn street in a heritage building, it is a perfect stop for a coffee and a danish at any point of time in the day.

2. Scran Bistro- for a quick bite or to take a lazy brunch with people watching. Its a cosy and warm place with an extensive menu with both meat and vegan options. Located near the Royal Mile it is great option for a affordable yet scrumptious meal.

3. Made in Italy- a lovely Pizzeria where you can completely customise your Pizza too. Located in the Grassmarket area surrounded by numerous other eateries, this place still drew us in with its wood fired Pizza aroma.

4. The White Hart Inn- the oldest tavern in Edinburgh founded in 1516 is said to be the home to many spirits...and not just the kind behind the bar. Even many tourists have experienced spooky things while enjoying a dram or two here. Not us! Spirits aside I love a place with history and this place once served the legends of the like of Oliver Cromwell, William Wordsworth and Robert Burns. This place offers great many beer options and is a place where you can safely try the famous ‘Haggis’. We were not great Whiskey Enthusiasts but if you are one then the place serves some of the choicest selection. Make an advance reservation (specially on the weekends) if you want to dine in the evening.

5. Mowgli- an Indian restaurant to tickle your tounge. Located close to Princes Gardens, close to the shopping streets. We were craving some spices and so went there for some ‘Gunpowder Chicken’, Agra Ginger chicken, some daal and Naan and safe to say it was not only satiating but also healing for my heart. It is loved by Indians and others alike because somehow they have been able to balance the spices and flavours which will suit most palates.

Now, there were some other places that we had thought to try out but couldn’t- Mary’s milk bar for its Gelato and hot chocolate (there was half a mile long queue), same for Dishoom. If you are in New town then please go to the Oxford Bar and let me know how it goes. It’s looks simple and yet so charming (of course from the pictures and reviews).

Transportation and Accommodation in Edinburgh

All major landmarks and attractions are located in the old town which is pretty walkable but if you plan to go to Arthur’s Seat or the New town, you can either take buses (there are many stops in the old town as well) or Uber (more expensive of course but makes sense if you are in a group and the cost gets split). For travelling to and from the Airport, most hotels provide shuttle service but if you are staying in old town then the closes bus stop/Shuttle stop will be next to Scott’s monument and from there you either take uber (if you have heavy luggage) or walk to your accommodation.

Coming to Accommodation, Edinburgh is expensive. At least the old town is. However, if you book 2-3 months in advance specially for summers, you may find some great options close to Stockbridge and old town. We were a bit last minute so we stayed a bit further away. In that case, choose a place which is connected by public transport (no brainer there) Though when you only have 2 days to explore you would want to be close to the centre and in the thick of things, then shelling out a bit more to avoid the commute back and forth might be worth it. Pro Tip: Book well in advance (go for free cancellation if the plan is dicey) for a summer trip.

As with any place you visit, there is always something more that one can see and experience and it is truer in case of Edinburgh. Though we were leaving the city now, I know I would come back for more- more history, legends, food and the bagpipes.

With this, our 2 days came to close and we headed to pick up our luggage and take a bus to Airport Hotels where we were to pick up our Rental Car for our onward journey to the Scottish Highlands. We had chosen Arnold Clark for the car rental after an extensive research and I can only say good things about them. Check my blog “detailed guide on how to rent a car in Scotland” for more details.

Since we were travelling in summers we took advantage of the very long days to start our journey from Edinburgh to Aviemore around 06:00 pm and reached Aviemore by 08:30 with ample sunlight around. If the same journey is in winters then I would recommend staying another night in Edinburgh and start the next morning. (P.S. not a fan of night driving, specially in a new country).

The Route

Before we dive in to the epic road trip this was, let’s discuss the routes that you can take. It is said Scotland has some of the world’s most scenic road routes and we can vouch for it. There were lochs on the sides for miles and miles, with intimidating highland mountains with the different shades of greens, nature was on its A-game while creating Scottish Highlands. This was our route:-

Start: Edinburgh

1. Route to Aviemore

   • Take the A9 northbound from Edinburgh.

   • Continue on the A9 until reaching Aviemore.

2. Route from Aviemore to Inverness

   • Head north on the A9 from Aviemore.

   • Arrive in Inverness.

3. Route from Inverness to Portree

   • Take the A82 from Inverness towards the Isle of Skye.

   • Follow the A87 to Portree.

4. Route from Portree to Oban

   • Return via the A87 to the A82.

   • Follow the A82 south to Oban.

5. Route from Oban to Glasgow

   • Take the A85 from Oban towards Crianlarich.

   • Connect to the M80 to reach Glasgow.

6. End: Glasgow

A lot people prefer to do a road trip for the epicness of the route itself but we were in Scotland for the first time so we planned it according to the places we wanted to see and fit in the time that we had. We wanted to see the only free ranging herd of Reindeers so our next stop was Aviemore in Cairngorms National Park, just 2 hrs 30min away from Edinburgh.

Cairngorms National Park

Day 3

Cairngorms National Park is the biggest protected natural area in the UK. was our entry to the Scottish Highlands. As majestic and wild the landscape was with its lochs and artic-alpine forests and blue skies, we were there to see the REINDEERS!. We booked the hilltop tour at ( https://www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk/hill-trips/ ) which involves a easy 15-20 min hike to the top of a mountain from Glenmore Village in Aviemore. They also have an enclosure tour near the ticket centre but i think it would be very underwhelming as they just have 3-4 reindeers there in a small area and nothing else to do or see. While the hilltop tour is exciting with its hike, the views from the top of the mountain and of course many many many raindeers running around freely making the already wild nature even more grand. Try booking this experience in advance as they usually sell out fast. Wear comfortable and sturdy footwear and windproof and waterproof clothing, even in the peak of summers it was pretty cold.

Funfact: Reindeers had gotten extinct in the UK somewhere in 1200s due to climate change and overhunting and they were reintroduced in the Cairngorms in 1952 by Mr. Mikel Utsi who brought some of his Swedish Reindeers to see if they could survive and thrive in the Cairngorms and once it was estblished that they could bigger consignments came. Today over 150 Reindeers are grazing away happily in the Cairngorms National Park.

We then headed to see Rothiemurchus forest, Loch en Eliean and Loch Morlich. Pristine waters reflecting the thick canopy of alpine forests, calm shores of the lake and the sound of nature all around. There are many activities to do around the Rothiemurchus Forest such as Kayaking in the Loch en Eliean, ATV drive in the forest, rafting, shooting, hanging out with big birds of Prey or simply walking around the lake. All these activities need to be booked in advance ( https://rothiemurchus.net ) in summers, we had not so we just ended up walking around the loch. The complete walk trail around the Loch is about 3 miles and is a fairly easy to complete. You can even go swimming in the Loch if you get hot with all the activities and walking.

Our stop for the night for us was Inverness. A short 45 min drive from Aviemore and the base for our big journey to the Isle of Skye. I absoultely love summers in UK, we reached Inverness around 7 pm and yet the sun was beaming and the day still had so much potential. We checked in our stay which was a cute homestay very close to the city centre and then headed out to explore. We walked along the river Ness with a view of the old town skyline. As we crossed the bridge to the old town the sounds of highland music and bagpipes drove us closer to this really cool pub called the Highlander ( https://www.highlanderinverness.com ) and we had to pop in. A band called Tartanpaint was playing Scottish tradtional folk tunes and left everyone in awe. I am tagging their instagram handle (tartanpaintmusic) so you could check them out as well.

Well, after a lot of Ceilidh and lager at the Highlander we called it a day. We didnt really do sightseeing in Inverness because of time crunch and i was gutted to not have visited Culloden Moors. Someday soon hopefully.

Day 4

Next day, we started early on our way to Portree, Isle of Skye. We took the route A-82 alongside Loch Ness then A-887 via loch Dulch, making a pit stop at the Eilean Donan Castle, cruising over the Skye bridge from Kyle of Loclash to the Isle of Skye.

The journey from Inverness to Portree was incredibly beautiful, featuring the blue waters of Loch Ness and Loch Dulch, the highland mountains, and the green meadows in between. It was like stepping into a painting, only more stunning.

If you are into castles and ruins then a pit stop at the Eliean Donan castle is highly highly recommended. Also you got to do Castles in Scotland, i always feel like time travelling when i visit these structures and imagine what they would have been like in their times, brimming with life, with people, with stories. Eilean Donan (Isle of Donan) is easily one of most iconic images of Scottish Highlands. First inhabited somehwere in the 6th Century, the fortified structure came into existence in the 13th century only to be damaged heavily during the Jacobite rising. The structure that stands today has been restored to its former glory by the Macrae family who are its guardians till today.

Eliean Donan Castle, Dornie

The drive from Eliean Donan Castle is just about 1 hour and with the views that it offers, you are going to love every second of it. We reached Portee around noon and straightway headed to the town centre to grab a bite. Portree is the biggest town in the Isle of Skye and hosts mutliple and variety of food joints for all price ranges. We chose a no fuss and small wood fired pizza place called “Pizzaway” overlooking the Loch Portree and it didnt disappoint. Since we wanted to have the next whole day for the Trotternish Peninsula, we chose to do Fairly pools, Taliskar beach and Sligchan Bridge this day.

Fairy pools were a quick 30 minutes drive away. Imagine crystal-clear, turquoise waters tumbling over a series of magical rock pools, all set against the jaw-dropping drama served by the Cuillin Mountains. It’s like nature decided to create the perfect postcard that you can visit yourself.

The surrounding landscape has long been steeped in folklore, with tales of fae (fairies) folk, ancient clans, and mystical happenings passed down through generations. Fairies in Gaelic folklore were ‘little red people’ who galloped on the horses at the speed of wind, wore shaggy green robes and had wrinkled hats. However, the story behind the name of Skye’s Fairy Pools comes from a local myth in which a clan Chieftan married a fairy woman - the Fairy Flag legend of Dunvegan Castle. The pair were in love with one another, but despite this the King of the Fairies forbade their marriage. After seriously upsetting his daughter, the King eventually allowed the pair to be married but only for one year. While married, the couple had a child together however once the year was up, the Fairy Princess was commanded to return home to her realm, leaving behind her husband and child.

Some tales even say that the Fairy Pools attract other creatures from Scottish mythology such as selkies. Selkies are seals that can transform into humans by shedding their aquatic skins. It is said that they would arrive at the foot of Glen Brittle in disguise as large seals, only to shed their skins to bathe in the pools under the light of the full moon.On the isle, it is said they would go to the beach at the foot of Glen Brittle and from there make a pilgrimage to the fairy pools where they would bathe under the light of the full moon. From folklore to a gory history, in 1601 the battle of Coire na Creiche in 1601 between MacDonalds of Sleat and the MacLeods of Dunvegan in these lands had run the waters of these fairy pools bloody. Having read up a bit about the history of the fairy pools, it felt surreal to be sharing the same waters which were filled with so much mystery, magic and tragedy.

While the Fairy Pools themselves are a sight to behold, getting there is part of the adventure! The walk from the car park is about 2.4 km (1.5 miles) and includes uneven terrain, river crossings, and the occasional muddy patch. A moderate level of fitness is recommended, and waterproof hiking boots will be your bestie. Pack sunscreen and of course reapply, a water bottle, a snack (no tuck shop or no place nearby to buy anything from) and a bathing suit for the dare-devils for an ice cold plunge. It was a sunny day and became quite hot to be honest which though took some moodiness that you expect when you think of Scottish highlands but the waters became even more refreshing because of that.

From here we drove about 20 min to reach Taliskar Bay Beach Parking and then walked 20 min more to reach the Beach. Its not a typical sandy beach but more rocky and wild with cliffs and waterfalls. If you are reaching there towards the end of the day then you can may be find it almost to yourself. We headed back to Portree from here but if you have no other plans for the evening then you can head to the Taliskar Distillery (or do that first and then arrive here to end the day), have a cup of coffee at Coara Dubh Coffee Company (Coara Dubh means Black Sheep in gaelic) or may be have dinner at Three Chimneys. If you are looking for white sands and easy swim then instead try Coral Beach at Dunvegan.

On our way back to Portree, we stopped at the Sligachan Bridge on river Sligachan for the mandatory beauty dip in the refreshing cold waters of the river. A widely popular myth is that if you dip your face in the waters of Sligachan for 7 seconds and let it naturally dry, you will be eternally beautiful so who am i to say no to eternal beauty!

It may look like a lot of things to do in a day, but thats the fun of summers in UK, the days are super long. This day the sun had set at 10:30 pm! But having a long long day we chose to skip the sunset and get a good night’s rest since there was a lot of hiking and walking the next day.

Day 5

In today’s plan we wanted to hike Old man of Storr, see Quairang, Dunvegan Castle & have our sunset at Neist Point. So we got ready with our hiking shoes, packed some snacks, water and sunscreen and headed for the Old Man of Storr. The Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish Ridge is probably the most famous walk, and definitely the busiest attraction, on the Isle of Skye. The Old Man (Bodach an Stòr in Gaelic), is a 55-metre-high pinnacle of basalt rock which is all that remains of a 2,800-million-year-old volcanic plug. A short 15 min car drive from Portree will take you to the Old Man of Storr Car Park from where you begin your hike.

Again the sun was super bright and the day was hot. So to avoid the heat and to beat the crowds it is seriosuly advisable to go there as early as possible. Did we manage to do that? Nope. But we should have. By the time we had reached the car park was almsot getting full and the trails had gotten super busy. Nonetheless, we were there to hike and so we did. There are two trails to the top and of course we chose the more difficult and steep one (Why? No Clue!). The Old Man of Storr is an out-and-back walking trail, around 1 mile / 1.7km in each direction. In terms of how long it takes to walk, the Old Man of Storr will take you roughly 45-60 minutes each way. However, you’ll absolutely want to stop and take tons of photos, so that made the whole trip a lot longer. The photographs that we got made it absolutely worth it.

Like all places in the Scottish highlands, the old man od storr has its own interesting legend. It is said that once upon a time giants roamed the isle of skye and one such giant when died was buried here, however because of his size, his thump popped out and thats the rock jutting out which today is called the Old Man of Storr. Look at the picture below to see the Giant’s thumb.

After we said goodbye the old man of storr, we headed to refuel ourselves at a nearby cafe called Columbia 1600 which was on our way to Quiraing. Lovely views, good spread and lot vegan and vegetarian options as well. Quiraing is an area of active landslip on the isle of skye offering dramatic landscape and stunning views. There is a circular walk of 6.8 km around Quiraing which starts from the car park however having done the old man of storr hike and lack of time we chose to admire this little piece of heaven on earth from a view point near the car park itself. From photography point of view, it is said the most interesting formations of Quiraing can actually be covered and easily captured from area around the car park.

Quiraing

Again, of you are planning to spend more time here, bring your snacks, water, may be a hat as there are no covered areas here. We now made our way to Dunvegan Castle on the other end of isle of Skye. The drive from here is about an hour and the castle gardens are open till 05:00 pm (Last entry). Dunvegan Castle is the ancestral home of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for 800 years. We chose to enter only the gardens of the castle which gave us good views of the architecture of the castle and Loch Dunvegan. If you have more time in hand you can enter the castle or take their seal ferry which takes you around the Loch to spot seals in their colony. We couldnt do that unfortunately, again, someday soon!

It was our 1st wedding anniversary today so we called it a day and headed back to our stay in Portree got ready for a date night at ‘The View’. It is one of prettiest restaurants in Portree having views of the bay, sailing ships lined up near the shore and sound of the waters hitting the shore. With a hearty meal and a lazy walk back to the hotel we saw the sun setting on the shores of Portree.

Day 6

On day 6 we were headed to Oban for our further trip to isle of Mull. There are two ways to reach Oban- one is via Kyle of Lochlash on A-87 and then A-82 and the other one is via Mallaig and Glenfinnan Duct. Both are similar in distance but we wanted to see the highland

coos and a private farm visit planned near Kyle of Lochlash so we chose the former. If you are a potterhead then you may want to take the road via Glenfinnan Duct to see the real Hogwarts express. We chose the ‘Coos’ and if you have ever seen their pictures on instagram then you would know why. For this we went to a farm in Kyle of Lochalsh where we had an up close interaction with the most adorable highland coos.

Saying googbyes to the coos and the isle of skye we were on our way. On the way to Oban we passed by Fort William and other smaller towns and the drive along A-82 was breathtakingly beautiful. By this day, some clouds had appeared and every mountain, every glen and every loch looked a bit more mysterious. There is a reason A-82 along this route is considered one of the most scenic drives in Scotland and in the world. It was drizzling in between and after 3 hours or so from Kyle of Lochlash we reached Oban.

Oban is a small town in the southern highlands and gateway to the Isles of Mull, Iona and Staffa. We checked in at our stay and headed to the pier to have the most delicious dinner at ‘Marki Dans’ overlooking Loch Linhe with sail boats returning home.

Day 7

So, there were two options of what were planning to do- a ferry trip to just Isle of Mull and spend the whole day on the island and back or a comprehensive tour of Mull, Iona and Staffa. We wanted to take the day easy as it being our last day of the trip, we chose to just visit Isle of Mull. Now, here are a few things to keep in mind. First, Isle of Mull is again very big and to get from one end to the other takes fairly long time. So you can really explore only one side of the island comfortably in a day specially if you are returning to Oban the same day. Secondly, try to take your car to the isle instead of relying on public transport at M

ull. There are buses on major routes but are few and less frequent so one is kind of time bound and restricted. Third, if you dont want to plan a whole day on your own, join the tour to Mull, Iona and Staffa. This tour doesnt really spend any time on the isle of Mull except the bus ride from Craignure to Fionnport from where you take a ferry over to Iona. In most of these tour most of the time on ground will be spent in Iona and a little bit on Staffa. But if you are going there in summers, then you can visit thousands and thousands of ‘Puffins”. Close to staffa, you will be able to see Fingal Caves too. There are chances of seeing more wildlife on this tour.

Anyway, our ferry dropped us to Craignure on the isle of Mull and we headed to the colorful and quaint town of Tobermory. The drive from Craignure to Tobermory is about 40 minutes. Be mindful that the roads on this island are narrow and slightly beaten at points.

Tobermory’s picturesque waterfront flaunts its brightly-coloured buildings against a backdrop of rolling hills and leafy woodland. This bonnie sight has earned the humble harbour its reputation as one of the prettiest in all of Scotland. For its tiny size, Tobermory punches way above its weight. From the colorful coastal facade of buildings, to woodland walks, lighthouses and tons of antique and art for shoppers and plenty of cheese, seafood and whisky for the foodies on this community owned island town. We spent couple of hours in this town grabbing every photo opportunity and had an early lunch. Tobermory has many food joints, from fancy fine dining to a quick snack shops. From here we headed to Calgary Bay Beach (30 min drive)

We wanted to do a beach day in Scotland and chose Calgary Bay Beach for many reasons. Its one of the prettiest beaches in all of Scotland and may be in UK as well. It has white sand, gentle gradient and mellow waves because of being sheltered from both ends which makes it perfect for a swim. Its a horseshoe shaped bay beach with green hillock flanking it on both sides.

Calgary Beach, Isle of Mull

The beach boasts a fantastic camping site with all the amenities on the left flank, making it absolutely ideal for a outdoorsy date for couples or a delightful family picnic! The water was a stunning turquoise blue, and against the backdrop of pristine white sand, it was simply irresistible. We couldn't help but dive right in, even though it was quite chilly for summer. We absolutely loved every moment! Splashing around in the water, chatting with friendly locals on the beach, and watching the seagulls soar across the horizon made for the perfect relaxing day. Plus, there are 2-3 charming cafes nearby where you can enjoy a hot cup of coffee after your swim and savor a simple, tasty lunch.

We took a leisurely drive from Calgary to Craignure to catch our return ferry to Oban. If you're fortunate, you might see some otters on the island; we didn't, but we hope you do! The final ferry from Craignure to Oban departs around 6 pm, so it's best to check the schedule or book in advance.

The ferry from Craignure to Oban is about 1 hour and before we knew we were back on the pier in Oban. For dinner we again went to ‘Marki Dans’ (yes, we actually loved it that much).

Day 8

Today was all about getting home and we were driving to Glasgow to drop off our rental car. One thing that i can for sure about Scotland road trip that the journey was so beautiful that would make you want to stay on the road a bit more longer. We crossed, mountains, valleys, blue waters of Loch Lomond and so much more. You can visit Kilchurn Castle on the way but it was closed for some reason that day. If you're looking for a place to take a break and grab some food, you should definitely visit 'Artisan Cafe Deli' in Crianlarich. Housed in an old church building, it offers a stunning setting.

After about 2.5 hours on the road, we reached Glasgow. With some time left before our train journey home, we chose to explore the town center, doing some last-minute souvenir shopping and enjoying the vibrant atmosphere of Glasgow. The Victorian architecture and bustling city center made it a fantastic shopping spot. From what little we experienced, Glasgow seemed like the older brother of Edinburgh in some way. After a week, we were eager for some Indian cuisine, so we went to 'Chakoo,' an Indian restaurant, and satisfied our hunger with spicy curries and naan.

And just like that it was time to head home and reminisce (& of course post on instagram). Scotland was truly out of this world. The nature healed my mind, body and soul. It was everything we had hoped for and much much more. Did we see everything? No. Did we complete the itinerary? No. Could we have seen more or done more? Of course yes. But in my opinion, travel is not just about all that, is it? Its about absorbing, observing and most importantly feeling. I may forget a name or two of the cafes we went or the towns we passed by but i will always remember how truly happy and grateful we were for being able to experience this piece of paradise.

Let me know if i have convinced you enough to have your own scottish adventure!

Feel free to write to me at offshegoesadventures@gmail.com for any queries, or recommendations.